Does fashion month save the best for last? See all the looks coming from the top spring 2022 collections showing in Paris—from Dior and Saint Laurent to Vuitton, Chanel, and all the shows in between—and decide for yourself.
Ann Demeulemeester
Shades of gray exist in our lives, but not at Ann Demeulemeester. The Belgian fashion house went full black-and-white this season to honor “modernity in the pureness of tailoring.” That’s cool-speak for “we know how to build OG minimal clothes from the Antwerp 6; just sit tight until you see them.” Of course, once you do, you might sprint home and change your entire closet to align with the elegant binary of an A.D. seam. Such is the danger in slouchy leather skirts and slinky cotton dresses, embellished with spare French phrases that read “love is an action” and “tell your children your dreams.” Rumor has it Demeulemeester herself scrawled the words on the pieces—a benediction of sorts as we all try to get dressed, and get oriented, on a new page of the world. —Faran Krentcil
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester
Givenchy
Like Jamiroquai in Center Stage, designer Matthew Williams has canned heat in his latest collection. That’s partly a metaphor—the label’s buzz was steady enough to lure millions to their livestream—and partly pretty literal, as a row of Givenchy-branded gas tanks just hit their Paris runway. They were painted by the American artist Josh Smith, who called his most recent gallery show “Emo Jungle” and transferred his signature imagery—including a groovy grim reaper and wavy white bones—onto Givenchy knitwear. Then there were gowns, veiled like mist at the bottom, or spangled with paillettes to make expressionist streaks to “explore the tension between extravagance and discipline,” according to the show notes. And Williams turned Jack-o-Lanterns into gilded, ghoul-faced purses—a cool subversion of Cinderella’s pumpkin, as well as a wink to the internet’s cheugy obsession with spooky season. There was so much to look at, but only one thing we’d nix: a few silver necklaces that mirrored the knots of a noose. Tragedies aren’t trends, and anyway, Williams doesn’t need shock tactics. As this collection proves, he’s already got the whoaaa factor working hard in his favor. —Faran Krentcil
Lanvin
If American pop culture is a candy apple, Lanvin’s latest collection is an organic cider cronut. The flavor profile is close to the snap, crackle, pop of our televised heroes and villains, but way more expensive, and complex, too. Designer Bruno Sialelli did everything right with his “Comic Book” collection by licensing Batman, riffing on Warhol flowers, bedazzling bags with Judith Leiber, and even shredding silk to look like tinsel or crepe paper. But everything was simply too luxe, and even the Batmobile purse looked like it had been sculpted by an Italian master. That’s better for everyone, because we don’t need another fashion riff on Metropolis—but gosh, we could use some beautiful clothes to wear when we realize we should be our own heroes, and start acting like it (in platform heels, no less). —Faran Krentcil
Balenciaga
Balenciaga introduced a new version of reality to fashion week. In lieu of a spring 2022 show, celebs, models and guests all arrived to the Théâtre du Châtelet and walked the red carpet. Naomi Campbell and Amber Valletta strutted alongside Cardi B, plus the regular cast of models. The audience was, in fact, the show, as industry insiders sat inside and watched the arrivals on a big screen. But it didn’t take long for everyone to realize that this was all building up for a real premiere that spanned more than just a fashion show. The brand screened an episode of the Simpsons, complete with Homer, Marge, Bart and more decked out wearing the brand’s signature looks. Demna Gvasalia even made an appearance, along with other Balenciaga employees, as cartoon versions of themselves in the episode. As for the collection itself, there were all the Balenciaga signatures —oversized denim, head-to-toe prints, and graphic accessories included. The concept proved that it is indeed possible to do an arresting and memorable show that goes beyond a traditional runway or straight-forward video in a post-pandemic world. —Kristen Bateman
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Hermès
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski took guests on a journey for Hermès spring 2022. To start, the show took place inside an airport hangar, with a real jet landing behind the designer as she took her final bow. Along with that, the brand showcased its classic craftsmanship with an edge of cool. There were leather-trimmed shift dresses, cut loose and short. Lush leather crop tops —and there were many —were paired with silk printed shorts. Platform sandals worn with matching leather socks echoed the designer’s modern take on luxe minimalism, as did the slouchy pants with the just-right paper bag waists. Sure, all the codes of the house were there, but Vanhee-Cybulsk’s Hermès is also one that appeals to those who like to get a little experimental too, whether that means opting for a monochromatic leather mini set or a black leather halter top. —Kristen Bateman
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
In the past year or so, Vivienne Westwood’s signature archive pieces have exploded in popularity. Not just for the the hardcore fashion fans, but for a generation that is perhaps discovering the brand for the very first time, too. For the spring 2022 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show, there was a mix of old and new, incorporating some of those classic motifs in a new way. Models walked down the runway in supersized versions of the pearl earrings so beloved by TikTok (maybe supersized necklaces will be next?). Corseted silhouettes jutted out of classic vampy dresses. But the stars that made everyone reach for their phone at the show were models wearing the larger-than-life, frame-like structures that stretched across and above the heads with draped details that made the models look like they were attached to windows, curtains and all. Enormous chaps, giant jingle bell earrings and cat tees lent the sense of humor that is so distinct to the brand. While gender fluid skirts, upcycled fabrics and objects, plus a strong line-up of out-of-this-world hats grounded the collection, especially with all the usual tartans and earthy colors abound. —Kristen Bateman
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
Valentino
Past met future at Valentino Rendez-Vous, which marked the Roman house’s return to the Paris Fashion Week ready-to-wear calendar for the first time since February 2020. The open air show at the Carreau du Temple marketplace in the Marais was a joyful hit parade of Pierpaolo Piccoli’s stylistic signatures worn by models of all genders. These included polished denim (this season, in a new wide-leg cut), reimagined couture volumes like a shirt dress-cum-gown in highlighter yellow taffeta; and, of course, bold combinations of vivid, acrylic colors. The playful jellyfish tendrils from his most recent couture collection even made an appearance on a cocoon top and Bermuda shorts in electric blue and lime. The lineup also featured Valentino Archive re-editions including a white minidress with dramatically ruffled sleeves worn by Marisa Berenson in 1968 and long floral dresses photographed by Chris von Wangenheim in the 1970s. The rich palimpsest of decades and genres sent the message that these are clothes to buy now and love forever. —Alison S. Cohn
Loewe
“Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical.” Sounds like all of us these past couple of years, but it’s actually Jonathan Anderson’s take on spring 2022 for Loewe. If this feels like a turning point for the brand—one marked by experimentation, surrealism, and artfulness—that’s because it is. The designer looked to Mannerist Renaissance painter Pontormo, exploring notions of draping, sculpting, and color “by way of torsions, diversions and
distortions,” according to the show notes. Fabric was twisted and turned, jackets were worn backward and imbued with sequins, track pants were draped with yards of fabric, slim-fit dresses showcased protruding elements, and long gowns emanated from torsos cast in resin. It was a visual trip, and sometimes we didn’t quite know exactly what we were seeing. Denim looks followed by a parade of party-ready pastel-accented dresses finished the show—taking this trip back into the real world, where a beautiful dress and a great bag remain hot commodities. —Kerry Pieri
Chloé
Since Gabriela Hearst joined Chloé in 2020, the eco-friendly designer has made it her mission to inject the storied French house with a serious dose of sustainable style. That means products handcrafted by independent artisans, traceability and transparency requirements, and low-impact material, all of which were present in the spring 2022 collection. Hearst approached craft and color with a careful eye, elevating cashmere with hand-painted stripes, transforming bohemian carefree dresses with upcycled jewelry from other French fashion houses of the past, and patching hand-cut leathers together to resemble woven wonders. “I think people are forgetting the difference between industrialized product and something that is made by hand, and we wanted to show that is important,” Hearst said after the show, which took place overlooking the Seine. For the Chloé purists at heart, there was something for everyone. You needn’t look any further than the easy double-breasted ivory trench coats or breezy kaftans. —Kristen Bateman
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s 10th-anniversary show came with two unusual perks: a Doja Cat performance and a deeply personal two-page letter from the designer. The 36-year-old Kardashian bestie revealed his new collection is about “recovery and renewal,” noting, “a year ago, I suffered some painful burns in an accident. Hospital rooms, bandages, and gauze wraps suddenly became a big part of my life—and as I began sketching, I found myself translating those months of doctors and physical therapy into today’s many bands, weaves, and dangling straps.” He also included puffy accessories and quilted leather, as if to bubble-wrap the wearer from harm, whether it’s physical or emotional. Though if it’s just a bout of the blues, any one of the final looks—gem-encrusted party dresses worn by Milla Jovovich, Karen Elson, and more—should easily do the trick. —Faran Krentcil
Isabel Marant
A lot of designers in Paris seemed to have sun, sea, and skin on their minds, and Isabel Marant was no exception. Beachwear mixed with ready-to-wear in waves of barely-there crop tops, bikini tops worn over tiny tees, and high-waisted bathing suit bottoms paired with the kind of colorful shirts you might buy off the boardwalk or a sandy roadside shop in an exotic location. But Marant is still the queen of French-girl cool, and it wouldn’t be one of her collections without a dose of unexpected chic. The low-slung baggy jeans, in faded florals and embellished acid wash, were the shining North Star in guiding the collection through the rocky sea of often ambiguous beach-inspired runway shows this season. —Kristen Bateman
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant
Raf Simons
It was all in the details for Raf Simons’s spring 2022 collection. Things that at first glance seemed classic, upon second look revealed reinvention. A typical subtle oversized work shirt was twisted and blown out of proportion. Long blazers seemed to be printed with graphics that looked like they were ripped from vintage rock band tees. Baseball caps turned into something entirely new with flowery draped edges, morphing into hybrid cloche hats. This season, maybe more than ever, there have been several street style stars experimenting with the idea of gender, some wearing dresses and skirts for the first time, and others trying ties paired with feminine dresses and baby tees. The same applies to fashion fans seen on TikTok. Simons distilled down some of his signature motifs. Suiting, bomber jackets, and all, mixing them together with motifs of the gender-fluid evolution the fashion world is finally embracing. —Kristen Bateman
Raf Simons
Raf Simons
Raf Simons
Raf Simons
Coperni
Coperni’s new collection is fantastic, but how you feel about it likely depends on your own connection to your body. That’s because the buzzy Paris label made 32 looks, each showing more skin than a dermatology conference. There were the full-sleeve, no-torso twist tops worn by Gigi Hadid and Paloma Elsesser. There were the sharp-seamed blazers that flashed flesh while covering shoulders. And there were textured skirts—some long, some short—built to flounce and shimmy whenever you walk. This was future-forward style for body-con acolytes of all shapes and genders, and it was fun to see it on display. What’s missing though? Visibly older bombshells (of all shapes and genders!) doing the same. To be fair, Gen X already owns some rave-babe staples from the first time around … but that cargo dress with pink chiffon? Totally new. Totally need it. —Faran Krentcil
Rick Owens
Yesterday in the Metaverse, Rick Owens dropped an NFT collection with rapper Tommy Cash. Today in Paris, things came back to flesh and blood, as Owens sent his wife (and muse, and business partner, and asteroid goddess) Michèle Lamy through the Palais de Tokyo in his opening look. The California artist called the collection “Fogachine,” and sheer fabric swoops of black, gray, and red billowed in the wind like wildfire ash. Behind the (literal) smoke and mirrors of the runway set, there were also laser-cut bodysuits that were barely—but beautifully—holding it all together. If Owens turns this whole runway show into GIFs and sells it with Bitcoin, there will be plenty of virtual takers. But why live in the cloud (or the clouds) when crystal spike heels and hoodie capelets bring some delicate glamour down to earth? —Faran Krentcil
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Acne Studios
Acne Studios may be a go-to for grown-up denim, but here in Paris, the beloved Swedish brand is gunning for the youth vote. It’s happening with super-sheer flutters and mega-platform sandals, along with peek-a-boob tops and exquisite embroidered corsets. The brand said its latest collection is “a clash between hyper-realistic and historical references,” which might be a reference to the bonnets … or to the rave cave party clothes that harken way back to the ’90s, which were—gasp—actually 30 years ago. And with that realization, we’ll be hiding in Acne’s new flame leather trench coat until further notice. —Faran Krentcil
Acne Studios
Acne Studios
Acne Studios
Acne Studios
Dries Van Noten
An “explosion of bold color and emotion” kicked off Dries Van Noten this season, channeling bright shades reminiscent of India’s festival of color, Holi, into separates and eveningwear pieces finished with fringe, oversized bows, and painterly prints. Playing with proportion and silhouette is nothing new for Dries Van Noten, but the range this season stood out; the signature blouson shapes were there, but body-con moments peeked in, too—along with some looks that were infinitely more sculptural. Some of the collection took on an almost trippy vibe, an ode to moments of collective joy, like at festivals and with fireworks. This season, be it in color, texture, form, or technique, was all about joy for Van Noten—and welcoming it back into our lives in big and small ways. The result? A range of bright, wearable pieces that couldn’t help but bring a smile to one’s face. —Carrie Goldberg
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
Cecilie Bahnsen
Dubbed the brand’s most technically refined collection to date by the designer herself, spring 2022 was all about the duality of femininity. Women can indeed be two things at once (if not more), and this season’s silhouettes were powerful in their daintiness. The layering and bold use of color were a stronger statement than the brand’s standard neutrals and pastels. Asymmetry, inspired by Calder’s mobiles, played a big role as well. Bahnsen’s show notes described her desire to celebrate the everyday and create clothes women can truly “live and dream in.” Some of those daily-life elements made their way into the more inspired silhouettes of the season, like drapes tucked to one side as if tying up one’s skirt in an “untethered bow” for a morning bike ride. —Carrie Goldberg
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen
Cecilie Bahnsen
Courrèges
The future and the past will always blend together when you have a new name at the reins of a heritage house, and the juxtaposition was felt with Nicolas Di Felice’s latest for Courrèges. As is typical for the label, there was a futuristic vibe threaded throughout, yet a future that’s been stitched and cut together before (how wild, really, when you think we’ve been costuming “the future” the same for decades upon decades). Pop culture-wise, you could spot bits of The Matrix, Kim Possible, and The Jetsons all blending together, but nothing felt kitsch in the least. And perhaps that’s the thing about the future: The minute we start to plan or prep for it, we find it’s upon us. Whatever we’re drawn to now is the look of the future. —Leah Melby Clinton
Courrèges
Courrèges
Courrèges
Courrèges
Saint Laurent
This is a tale of a boy, and a girl, and a boy. Anthony Vaccarello mined the atelier-shaking effect Paloma Picasso had on Yves Saint Laurent for spring, exploring how her paradoxical take on fashion helped push the master into a new stage of his career (“For me, it is the defining moment when Saint Laurent’s creativity became a style,” Vaccarello explained). You see it in the mixture of broad shoulders and clean, lean lines; low necklines and high-waisted pants—all were things that were hers before becoming a signature of the house. The freshness Saint Laurent found in Picasso back then works even now, decades later: The bold prints and colors she inspired are seen in Vaccarello’s telling as ultra-vivid florals and deeply pigmented oranges, blues, and reds. It was her sense of power and independence that appealed to and inspired YSL, and one wonders if this spring’s distillation comes through in the clinging, second-skin jumpsuits seen throughout. Few shapes allow for as much freedom of movement or require such a physical confidence—everything is on display, and there’s no space for fretting over what someone might think. But as you know, owning your space and living without apology are always in style. —Leah Melby Clinton
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent
Ottolinger
The raw, undone look is central to what Ottolinger designers Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch relate to and celebrate—asymmetrical, off-kilter pieces that bottle mid-moment energy. There’s a futuristic feeling woven throughout—these are intergalactic clothes, for sure—but there’s also something so human about the imperfect and the unexpected (no carefully programmed AI could ever). Tailored suit jackets pair nicely with briefs; sexy, stringy dresses and tops feel wonderfully messy, with their very construction capturing the way that the truly cool shrug on a piece and find that it fits and slouches and slips off just right. That sort of skill is most often left to the dresser—the person who can make a paper bag look appealing. Being able to weave it into the garment itself is pure magic. —Leah Melby Clinton
Ottolinger
Ottolinger
Ottolinger
Ottolinger
Christian Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri delved back into the extensive Dior archives for spring 22, and to Marc Bohan’s long tenure with the storied house. Zeroing in even further, Grazia Chiuri turned to the Slim Look collection, presented in 1961. At the time of its release, the press said, “It completely changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1947.” The show took place on a graphic, color-blocked set conceived by artist Anna Paparatti. The looks themselves followed that colorful spirit—leveraging yellow, green, red, navy, orange, and raspberry on little skirt suits, along fun, fringe dresses inspired by the iconic Roman nightclub, the Piper Club. There was also a range of bright, boxing-inspired looks; bold prints, like that found on a silk maxi skirt paired with a sheer black blouse; and louche denim suiting. Overall, the collection was inspired by … nonsense? As the show notes explained, Grazia Chiuri looked to Anna Paparatti’s Il Gioco del Nonsense (The Game of Nonsense). Nonsense, as the American poet and literary critic Susan Stewart saw it, is “perfect, pure, an untouched surface of meaning whose every gesture is reflexive.” Maybe something a little like boxing? —Kerry Pieri
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Christian Dior
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize debuted his first collection in Paris what feels like a whole lifetime ago: in February 2020. He did so with Naomi Campbell on his runway and a lot of buzz. Ize hasn’t slowed down since, but now he’s made his way back onto the catwalk. Keeping his home base of Nigeria alive in each collection, the designer utilized traditional handwoven asoke fabric created in a factory he set up in the city of Ilorin. The looks themselves had an inherent joy—bright striped suiting, plaid jackets, some easy maxi dresses done up in tiger prints or marigold fringe. A white column dress with patchwork was cool and simple. In short, Ize is living up to the hype. —Kerry Pieri
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize
Marine Serre
Marine Serre’s pandemic outlook is all about reevaluation. The latest collection, entitled Ostal24, was the brand’s most sustainable to date, composed of 45 percent recycled and 45 percent regenerated materials. “The most important thing for me is what people feel when they see Ostal24 rather than what they think,” Serre explained. “I want people to feel the beauty and the simplicity of being together and finding joy in cooking, eating, dancing, yoga. And at the same time recognize that every day we make choices that have an impact. So how can we be more responsible in the decisions we make?” she asked. While there was a lot of talk about reassessing when everyone was still at home, much of fashion has returned to the status quo. Serre is a rare outlier with an eco-aware collection that leverages knitwear, prints, track pants, and her iconic catsuits to meld statement making with comfort—but mostly with self-awareness. “Fashion is about more than draping fabric and making a profit, it can be a place where we are free to take meaningful action,” she said. Why not do it in a little skirt suit? —Kerry Pieri
Marine Serre
Marine Serre
Marine Serre
Marine Serre
Digital Fashion/Features Director Kerry Pieri is Harper’s Bazaar’s Digital Fashion/Features Director.
Editor at Large, ELLE.com “Her beauty and her brain go not together.” —William Shakespeare
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The Best Looks Straight Off the Paris Runways
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